I'm still incredibly thankful for the experience, but the lesson was not in actually learning how to do things right. Instead it instilled in me a deep yearning and desire to overcome organizational dysfunction, mediocrity and to overcome technical ineptitude.
Startups is a different animal. You ship things fast, and for the most part, you work with teams that care deeply about all aspects of the product, working with the best tools for the job. Sure, theres cargo cult tendencies - the beginning of this paragraph is evidence. The downside of many startups is that you move so fast that many times you never get to perfect anything, and the constant pivoting in unsuccessful startups tend to wear you down over time.
All in all, I learned much more about shipping code, adapting to the unknown and building products from startups than I did in enterprise.