"If you're Intel or AMD making a processor, I bet FPGA versions of things are not terribly relevant because it doesn't capture a whole host of physical effects at the bleeding edge."
Exactly.
When you verify a design via an FPGA you are only essentially testing the RTL level for correctness. Once you synthesise for FPGA rather than the ASIC process, you diverge. In ASIC synthesis I have a lot more ability to meet timing constraints.
So given that FPGA validation only proves the RTL is working, ASIC projects don't focus on FPGA. We know we have to get back annotated gate level simulation test suite passing. This is a major milestone for any SoC project. So planning backwards from that point, we focus on building simulation testbenches that can work on both gate level and RTL.
I am not saying FPGAs are useless but they are not a major part of SoC work for a reason. Gate level simulation is a crucial part of the SoC design flow. All back end work is.