(I got my first gmail account in 2004.)
Yeah, the UI wasn't bad, but there was less email back then and I didn't (still don't) really mind being served HTML repeatedly instead of some "AJAX" application, which is what I remember the technique being called. (It used to be the latency to the server was poor and JS hid that; now, on 2-3ms fiber, it seems that the JS actually introduces a lot more latency than it hides.)