Humidifying only 600 square feet, the size of a studio apartment, takes about 5 gallons of water per day in winter. [1]
The reservoir on this object looks to be no more than two gallons, and I would be truly shocked if it requires even daily refilling. If it actually moved enough water to make a difference, it would be a fundamentally flawed design in requiring multiple complete fillings per day, carting entire gallons to it (as you can't simply take the reservoir to the faucet). In fact however, I would be shocked if it made any measurable difference at all.
It speaks volumes that no information about the rate of water consumption and no measurement figures of RH are present on the page.
1: https://www.generalfilters.com/support/humidity-calculator.h... (settings: St Louis MO values for outside temperature and humidity. Inside 74, 50%, 8' ceilings, standard 0.5 air changes, 1 fireplace)
Maybe most people already know this, but I only learned it recently: you can go (approximately) from sqft to sqm by dividing by 10, presumably because 1m = 3.28ft and 3.28 squared is ~10. So 600sqft is about 60sqm (55.7)
Still approximate
If you want to really humidify a room it takes a big industrial sized unit. They had them in the rooms in our Colorado Airbnb cabin and they were totally necessary in the dry mountain air if you didn’t want to wake up in pain from dried out mucus membranes. Very loud and used many gallons of water in a single night.
This heavily depends on the ventilation as well. With ERV HVAC[1] it is much easier to keep higher humidity level as some of the moisture is reintroduced in the heat exchanger.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_recovery_ventilation
I share skepticism about this being used in any serious way. An ultrasonic humidifier is going to be smaller, probably cheaper, and run laps around it in terms of output.
Disclaimer: I work for a company that makes low-cost air pollution sensors.
And with the point being power-free, the air is going to be static or nearly so around the object (or bathtub). If it's supposed to get a boost from moving air from a forced-air furnace, that's cheating -- because in that case you could just install a similarly passive flow-through humidifier on that same furnace and be done with it, save perhaps an annual pad change. Many use no power, just the same "capillary and evaporation" as this - except with actual calculations underlying their specifications.
Based on your numbers, 1 gallon would be enough for a 10m² bedroom.
Shouldn't even be on Hackernews
For Firefox no extension is needed on desktop. Google how to do it. For Android Firefox, I use the add-on called LEGIBILITY.
That's a terrible thing to do to people who have poor or low vision, and the font size is small enough that it's almost a problem for people who have otherwise decent vision but require reading glasses!
I cranked mine up too much and it caused a mold issue in my home, and mold in my home caused me health issues.
We have this whole house humidifier installed in our furnace: https://www.aprilaire.com/whole-house-products/humidifier/mo... It has a remote temperature sensor you install outside, then it automatically adjusts the humidity based on the outside temperature to keep it under the mold-growing level.
We’re sort of in a bind — so how are we supposed to have safe air? 6-hourly bleached, heater based humidifiers running off the tap?
Nothing's going to incubate in that.
a) tuning down the room temperatures to ~21°C in winter
b) drink a lot of water
The last time I got really, really sick was in 2017.
With ultrasonic or warm mist (steam) humidifiers you can over-humidify the air.
Cool right? Feel free to use this idea as prior art.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=venta+air+washer&iax=images&ia=ima...
But is it actually effective for humidification? The top comment mentions that it takes 5 gallons per day to humidify a small studio apartment under ideal conditions...
For a single room, if that towel holds a gallon it should work fine for an overnight humidification job.
