Staf will also "protect" you from the Foundry NDAs. you develop with a "symbolic" version of the Cell Library, he runs the "Real" one and sends it to IMEC on your behalf. here's Staf's "symbolic" Cell Library, it's based on FreePDK45 https://gitlab.com/Chips4Makers/c4m-pdk-freepdk45/-/releases
Coriolis2 - http://coriolis.lip6.fr/ - is entirely Libre-Licensed. it's fully automated, you don't have to do any "hand-editing", it has unit tests (so you have demos you can look at and also check you installed everything right). we have some automated setup scripts for it if you're interested: https://git.libre-soc.org/?p=dev-env-setup.git;a=blob;f=cori...
LIP6 have a Silicon-proven ENTIRELY Libre Cell Library called nsxlib, if you really want to go that route. it's Silicon-proven in 360nm and 180nm.
Also, LIP6 have a relationship with a small town in Japan, they have 2 micron fab which is used for "training" of employees of the town. submission for that is entirely free. i know this exists but have not used it, and don't know more details, but i can probably put you in touch with Sorbonne University if you're serious.
and if you really really want to do "at home" stuff, Libre-Silicon is developing a 2in wafer fab, using Ultra-Violet DLPs and high-accuracy stepper motors, that you'll be able to buy and operate from your garage or lab. think "3D printing", i think they're aiming for 2000 nm or something (20 micron)? really big, but proves the concept.