The buggy firmware that allowed control from outside had nothing to do with UPnP, it was... just buggy firmware implementing it wrong. And it can be easily detected with online testers.
I always leave UPnP on, and I've never seen it disabled by default, nor would I ever want them to do that.
When the router does it right, it's just a small extra convenience for malware that can only be used when they already compromised your system. If they are in your network already, they can already do whatever they want.