I said this elsewhere but reviewing previous projects or doing a code review does help somewhat, but it leaves out my ability to see your actual coding skill re: speed. I need to get a sense of that in order to feel comfortable hiring you. The only way I can do that is if you do some live coding one way or another. How you do it at our company is entirely up to you.
With our salaries, we have yet to have anyone turn us down when we get to that stage of the interview, but maybe someday it'll happen.