I'm yet to give reverse mode a second try, but my attempts at forward mode (linked in parent post) were on my own without the paper's help. There's a talk that Conal gives that makes the paper a bit more accessible -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne99laPUxN4 - but only a bit more. I know it'll take effort to wrap my head around the implementation details ... but the paper certainly helped clarify things I was stumbling around about.