Edit: Changed math from 24 frames per second to 16 fps to reflect the 8mm film fps standard playback speed of 16 fps.
But it's a good caveat to consider when doing such a project.
But today I believe it is much better to use Digital cameras like the Raspberry Pi HQ cameras with good lenses. You don't need hacks, and the sensors come from recent mobile phones modules that have much better quality and technology than old camera digital sensors.
There is a rolling shutter penalty so you wouldn't want to use it in the "real world" for moving subjects but if you synchronise it properly (e.g. move one physical frame, take photo, move one physical frame) and ensure that there is no movement during the exposure then this shouldn't make a difference.
Even the worst culprits like a 61MP mirrorless (huge overkill for this task) with ~100ms readout could trivially keep up with 22 shots per minute.
This makes it sound like they are using an electronic shutter instead which circumvents the lifetime issues.
Mirror lockup mode is usually used to lower vibration or speed up picture taking, but the shutter still has to actuate.
EDIT: details of 1000D and shutter:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKRNF9QvmIiL1MzkNluiv1Q
It's a bit slower, but it's in active development.
EDIT: example - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN93JSX6
I would still love to figure out a good process to clean and upscale the video. I tried Topaz a while back, but it didn't seem suited for some of the artifacts in old, jittery film.
The added bonus is he would grab the sound of the projector which add a bit to the vintage touch.
I was involved with scanning some 35mm & 70mm Hollywood movie pieces for Universal and pulling 4K from some 35mm wasn't possible. They were saying 4K, but honestly, it was really about 3.5K of real res. I pulled 8K from 70mm, though.
http://www.sabulo.com/sb/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/0001-026...