I've gone back and forth on this, myself.
I wrote a custom b-tree implementation in rust for a project I've been working on. I use my own implementation because I need it to be an order-statistic tree, and I need internal run length encoding. The original version of my b-tree works just like how you'd implement it in C. Each internal node / leaf is a raw allocations on the heap.
Because leaves need to point back up the tree, there's unsafe everywhere, and a lot of raw pointers. I ended up with separate Cursor and CursorMut structs which held different kinds of references to the tree itself. Trying to avoid duplicating code for those two cursor types added a lot of complex types and trait magic. The implementation works, and its fast. But its horrible to work with, and it never passed MIRI's strict checks. Also, rust has really bad syntax for interacting with raw pointers.
Recently I rewrote the b-tree to simply use a vec of internal nodes, and a vec of leaves. References became array indexes (integers). The resulting code is completely safe rust. Its significantly simpler to read and work with - there's way less abstraction going on. I think its about 40% less code. Benchmarks show its about 25% faster than the raw pointer version. (I don't know why - but I suspect the reason is due to better cache locality.)
I think this is indeed peak rust.
It doesn't feel like it, but using an array-index style still preserves many of rust's memory safety guarantees because all array lookups are bounds checked. What it doesn't protect you from is use-after-free bugs.
Interestingly, I think this style would also be significantly more performant in GC languages like javascript and C#, because a single array-of-objects is much simpler for the garbage collector to keep track of than a graph of nodes & leaves which all reference one another. Food for thought!