I am not trying to convince you as you are already decided and your experience and feelings are valid. I think different programming languages can fit to different people and there is no bad choice here.
For anyone else reading this and considering Ruby I have to say the followings:
1. No, there is no magic in Ruby but there is flexibility and metaprogramming. Everything that appears magic is allowed by Ruby syntax and can be traced down to a few meta programmimg features. It might be hard to get it when you see it first, but please do make sure you understand Ruby and then you will also get the magic.
2. You can choose to use Minitest (which is Rails default testing framework) instead of RSpec and Minitest is Ruby code with few methods for assertion.
3. Mocking is an important part of testing
4. In any programming language and even agnostic of any programming language knowing how to code is different than knowing how to test. The testing framework is just an abstraction that should translate your test cases into executable tests.