Claiming that a leading brand was being beaten by a random formula made by a contractor is a big red flag. They tend to dominate Consumer Reports testing and this is a trend across detergents and cosmetics: the big manufacturers have the money to do original research and the scale to do stuff bit players just can't. Pantene is hated in hair salons but blinded end-user tea ing shows that it outperforms everything else on the market, for example.
But it's also true that making a good enough soap for a given task isn't hard. Otherwise you wouldn't have so many damn cosmetic products out there. The delta just isn't that significant and plenty of people are fine with bar soap for everything. So I'm not surprised that the llama detergent scored well on some tests.
TC really should have partnered with a detergent scientist to check his experimental setup first.
Can't wait for the YouTube drama over something so petty as dishwasher detergent and the prewash!
This is damning if true, isn't it? Especially given the conflict of interests. It reminds me of non-independent software benchmarks.
Although, to be charitable, if they were skewing the results on purpose, they could have just omitted the amounts altogether.
EcoGeek instructs to use 15 grams which costs $0.65 per load. The 20g used is 133% this amount.
Cascade instructs to fill your dishwasher compartment which is about 71 grams and costs $0.23 per load. The 20g used is only 23% this amount.
>Mechanical energy of the machine itself is responsible for 85% of the soil removal during the cleaning cycle; the detergent contributes the other 15%. Thermal energy is in a sense a secondary effect, contributing to the effectiveness of both the mechanical and chemical components of cleaning.
(From “Liquid Detergents, 2nd Edition”.)
>The primary role of pre-wash is to quickly and mechanically scrape off already loose particles and to dilute pigments before a hot main wash cycle. Already loose particles are a nuisance worth quickly clearing, and pigments can transfer to plastics at some typical wash temperatures, so pre-wash has some value. Tomato sauces (and turmeric) are insidious in this regard. Because I think this latter point might be novel, I’ll quote Whirlpool:
>Pink/orange discoloration of plastics is usually caused by carotenoid, a class of typically red/orange pigments found in foods such as tomatoes and turmeric. When carotenoids are dissolved in oils, they become easily absorbed into many plastics, mainly when heat is also applied. Because the resulting stain is absorbed into the plastic, water-based bleaches are ineffective.
>Pre-rinsing or using a Rinse Hold cycle will reduce the chance of staining. Regular use of a rinse cycle and an air-dry or energy-saving dry option will >reduce the likelihood of staining.
(From https://producthelp.whirlpool.com/Dishwashers/Dishwasher/Was...)
hence, running tap to get hot water into machine is actually counterproductive. dishwasher manufacturers know what they do when they run pre-wash with cold water
> Of all attempts to solve staining from carotenoids (and beta carotene specifically), a quick pre-wash or pre-rinse is the most effective that I know about. Neither heat nor detergent are needed for this, though, because the staining comes from easily rinsable soils, and because heat is actively problematic for this particular type of soil. And for loose soils, temperature and detergent are simply irrelevant.
> Accordingly, for pre-wash, temperature and detergent are unimportant.
A hot prewash helps loosen fat, that was his claim. Anecdotal experience suggests to me that he's right. So maybe try to disprove that instead?
I don’t know who’s right but the article here already addresses this by pointing out that the short bursts of hot water in a prewash will never have as much impact as the sustained hot water wash in the main cycle.
The author of the post isn’t denying that a hot pre-wash will clean more than a cold pre-wash. What they’re saying is whether the hot pre-wash cleans more than a cold one is irrelevant to the final result since whatever the cold pre-wash doesn’t clean will almost certainly be cleaned in the longer, sustained, hot main cycle.
But that's a primary issue with TC's tests: it doesn't consider corner cases like this or water hardness. Consumers want it to "just work" and are not going to use a specific settings based on the contents of their dinner.
Sure, it helps the prewash remove fats. But if the main wash and the rinse aid get rid of all that regardless, then it doesn't really matter.
for removing fats and for actual washing there is a main cycle that runs hot
TC made specific claims about the benefits of a hot pre-wash. Instead of countering those, the blog's author decided to ignore them and build his own strawman to attack.
The author should have refuted the specific claims, or acknowledged them before moving to the drawbacks.
This is why you pre-run the hot water in the tap (assuming the dishwasher is attached to the hot water tap/pipe), so the dishwasher has hot water for the pre-wash already. Works for us for a better overall cleaning.
> If it is not obvious yet, I love detergents. So it is with a heavy heart that I say that dishwasher detergents are, in general, massively overrated. Other aspects of cleaning dominate the role of detergents, particularly in softer water or when using a rinse aid. ... In most cases, however, detergent only plays a minor role [... long snip...] detergents do not make that much of a difference. ... it is extremely important to keep in mind that nothing detergent-related matters that much.
While it is true that there are many effective detergents on the market, there's a simple test that you can do to show yourself that detergent matters a lot. The absolute best detergent I know of available, at any price, is Tergajet. Tergajet is a laboratory detergent that happens to work in household dishwashers. Tergajet is expensive. Tergajet is powerful. Run your dishwasher just once with Tergajet and you'll be able to tell the difference. (The inside of my dishwasher practically sparkles.) Because it is so expensive, I only use it when I have something seriously nasty to deal with (usually when I've inconvenienced/committed minor atrocities against a skillet). It works. And that's prima facie evidence that detergent does matter: if you can see significantly different results by changing it, it's important!
There's almost no discussion of enzyme action and how it's affected by temperature -- this is really important! Enzymes hate heat. The proteases in Tergajet denature above 55°C, so they like to be just below that temperature, while everything else cleans better above that temperature. It is a delicate balancing act. This, incidentally, is what's been going on with Energy Star and detergents. Old dishwashers ran hot (very inefficiently) and cleaned well. Then we lowered the temperature, but didn't reformulate the detergents, and got poor results. Now enzyme-based detergents do a good job at lower temperatures, but need longer to work, as enzymes aren't terribly fast. This has major implications on what you want your pre-rinse to look like, if you're using detergent in it.
> This risk of “saturation” is almost non-existent. First, you only need a few grams of a good surfactant to strip a lot of oil. Second, the pre-rinse and/or pre-wash cycles, even without detergents, will still remove a lot of soil. Your dishwasher’s wash water will be hot enough to loosen oils, further diluting soils during regular cycles. And then your rinse aid will act as a fairly potent degreaser, finishing the (in all likelihood, already finished) job.
> For all practical purposes, to premium dishwasher detergents, a really dirty set of dishes and a moderately dirty set of dishes aren’t all that different, and so it doesn’t make a difference whether only 30% of the soil or a full 90% of the soil was removed during the pre-wash stage. The main wash stage will do just as good a job regardless.
This is absolutely, completely opposite to my results using dishwashers. You want the detergent to be present in excess: the limiting reagent has to be the soil for good results. I dump lots of Tergajet in there if I'm going to the trouble of using any at all. The final rinse cycle will get rid of whatever's left behind (because Tergajet is free-rinsing). Yeah, the pre-wash is great and needs to be powerful, but you cannot skimp on the soap.
Getting in to the detailed formula comparison, I'm struck by how he thinks EcoGeek/Green Llama has to be heavily caustic given that it contains multiple species of citrate pH adjuster. It's probably not all that alkaline. (I don't have any to check, myself. Does anyone know the pH? Tergajet is around 11 or so, which is pretty serious.) He also seems to think that corrosion inhibition is for "longer-lasting dishes and cutlery". Dishes and cutlery (porcelain and stainless) don't care about pH all that much. Corrosion inhibition is mostly about aluminum. If you never put aluminum things in your dishwasher, even by accident, you wouldn't really have to care much about this at all.
Two detergents have "Better performance on soils that benefit from oxidation because of the transitional metal bleach catalyst." ... but the other has TAED, a "bleach activator". Same thing! Yes, they'll have different effectivenesses, but it's disingenuous to say one detergent has this and the other doesn't.
Is any of this fatal to his arguments? No. But they're sloppily argued. I don't think either he or Alec have made solid cases here.
- more than once i either forgot caps in previous dishwashers that I used or run out of powder in dishwasher that i use now. only sometime i could see that there was no detergent due to tiny dried on piece of food on fork or something like this. rest is typically sparkling clean. my results pretty much corresponds with article quote "Mechanical energy of the machine itself is responsible for 85% of the soil removal during the cleaning cycle; the detergent contributes the other 15%"
I get the best results with Cascade Platinum paks, so I buy those. I have had inferior results with other detergents. (Kroger has a clone of the Platinum packs. I think it's pretty good as well, but I don't remember.) So I don't buy those any more, I buy the one that I know will work.
It is not a surprise that the paks work well. There are several ingredients that "like" to be formulated as powders, and several ingredients that "like" to be formulated as liquids. The paks can contain both. This is not possible for pure powders or gels, so that lets paks have more different cleaners in them. (I don't know what's going on with gels. I've never personally had good luck with gels.)